Once upon a time we had relaxers. They were for Black women, as most non-ethnic hair types could not withstand the harsh chemical treatment. Well… as it turns out, most Black hair cannot withstand the treatment either. Over time, and with abuse, the relaxers have caused scalp burns, hair loss, and more for many women. But, Black women were not the only ones who wanted the straight hair that genetics had not given them. Coarse, curly, and otherwise non-straight hair affects all ethnicities. A new solution was necessary.
Enter Japanese Thermal Straightening and Brazilian Keratin Treatments. Heck, there are so many straightening treatments out there that trying to keep them all straight (pardon the pun) is dizzying. What IS a BKT? What IS a Brazilian Blowout? Who and what hair types can get them? Which treatments are safe to do at home? One Google search just leads to another and another and now you just want an asprin and a nap.
When you approach a hair stylist to discuss these treatments, you want to be as savvy and knowledgeable as possible, so let’s try to demystify the terms and sort it all out.
Brazilian Keratin Treatments
This is the “BKT”. Well, how is that different from a Brazilian Blowout? What makes it all so confusing is that some of these terms are brand names being used to define a genre of hair care products that basically do the same thing. Here are some characteristics they (mostly) all share in common.
- They use Keratin to fill in the hair. Coarse and curly hair tends to be porous, and Keratin fills in the “holes” and seals the cuticle, keeping moisture in hair that is typically dry and repelling humidity.
- They don’t break down and destroy the chemical makeup of the hair. Hair retains it’s natural pattern, but the cuticle becomes smoother and is surrounded by protective protein. There is little or no demarcation between new growth and treated hair. The treatment wears off and hair returns to its natural state. Hair can be worn wavy or straight.
- Treatment lasts about 12 weeks/ 3 months.
- It DOES contain chemicals like formaldehyde, but in small amounts and far less damaging than those in relaxers.
- Treatments start around $150 but can run around $300.
- The treatments only take a couple of hours.
- The treatment works great on all hair types – it actually works BETTER on chemically treated hair because that hair is more porous!
Common brands of this treatment are Global Keratin, Brazilian Blowout, Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Marcia Teixeira, and Keratin Complex by Coppola.
Women rave about the effectiveness of this treatment. They love that they can wear the hair straight or let it air dry into frizz-free waves. Hair has more life and body without the frizz factor, and your hair is not enslaved to the treatment – just let it wear off and you will be no worse that where you started. Sulfate free and sodium chloride free shampoos are critical to the longevity of your application. If you opt for this treatment you must adjust your shampoo routine, or you will strip the hair and literally wash your results down the drain!
The hair industry is catching on to the benefits of sulfate free cleansing. There are some great options that will leave your hair super hydrated and tangle-free. Check out a few of these possibilities!
Alterna Caviar Moisture Shampoo
A sulfate-free cleanser that attracts, retains and rebalances moisture while it protects color and improves the overall performace of tired, brittle hair. With real caviar extract! It’s a very good balance of rich moisture without weighing down the hair.
The Deva line is specially designed for curly hair types, and No-Poo delivers a gentle but effective, non-lathering cleansing.
Japanese Thermal Straightening
Also called Japanese Thermal Reconditioning, it is pioneered and branded by Yuko Systems. This treatment is permanent, it is chemical-based, and it is not recommended for ethnic hair with very tight coily and kinky patterns (ignore this warning at your own risk).
Stylists who are authorized to perform this treatment go through rigorous training exclusively from Yuko in Los Angeles, hence the reason why most certified stylists are concentrated in the West Coast Area. It is a very complex system that involves at least two chemical applications and two flat ironings, and can take anywhere from three to six hours. It uses a chemical mix that is less harsh than traditional relaxers and special high-heat irons. It ballparks in the range of $500. Fans of the process say it is well worth the cost and has delivered them from hours of wrangling with flat irons. It lasts a whopping SIX months without retouching! This in depth article gives a full explanation. The system is based on using heat oxidation to rebuild the hair, and there are a few brand names that offer similar systems: CHI Transformation System (explained here), Liscio Hair Re-Bonding, and Bio-Ionic Straighteners, to name a few.
For the Yuko treatment, it is highly recommended that the products designed for upkeep by Yuko are used to maintain the hair.
Yuko Lock In Color Shampoo/ Treatment for Color-Treated Hair
Yuko Lock In Color Shampoo
Yuko Lock In Color Treatment
Yuko Bella Shampoo/Treatment for Chemically Treated Hair
Yuko Bella Shampoo
Yuko Bella Treatment
Yuko Kokoro G Shampoo/ Treatment for Dry, Sensitive, and Damaged Hair
Kokoro G Shampoo
Kokoro G Treatment
Yuko System Cleansing Shampoo for Normal to Oily Hair
Yuko Cleansing Shampoo
